Day 2 - Bodmin to Exeter - projected distance 80 miles.

Whew. That was definitely my most difficult day so far. Yes, I know it's only the second day - but it was difficult. I can sum it up in three words - hills, hills, and hills. In the name of adventure I decided last night to ignore my proposed GPS route and to cycle directly over Dartmoor instead. I would like to think it's what Sir Ranulph would do. The good part - in theory - is that the Dartmoor route was more direct; the bad news was that it was more hilly. I knew there was a particularly big climb up on to the moor. Anyway, here's what happened.

I left Bodmin about 10am, under a leaden sky, and it wasn't long before the drizzle started, so I needed my waterproof jacket. Conditions weren't bad though - the rain was very light and there was little wind. As I made my way through the countryside towards Liskeard, I noticed how sparsely populated this part of the country is - and I've also noticed how few cyclists there are (with good reason). During the whole day's ride, which included the centre of Exeter, past the University, I saw only 14 cyclists. In Bristol I'd see 14 in about five minutes. Petrol stations are also widely spaced, which is an irritation when your water bottles are empty. I have two bottles on the bike - one with an electrolyte drink, and one with water - but they don't last more than 40-50 miles.

Near Liskeard I stopped for a few moments by King Doniert's stone, which apparently has been there since the 9th century. This was 850ft up a fairly big hill, with a splendid view. No-one else was around - just me, some sheep, and some cows. I followed my GPS up and down a lot of hills towards Tavistock. There was a very big climb out of the Tamar Valley, with the reward at the end of it of a glorious sign pointing towards the village of Chipshop. No kidding (see photos, right). On one of the quick runs downhill I had to apply my brakes fairly promptly when I spotted a wet cattle grid on a steep downhill section.

Then it was time to climb up onto Dartmoor. The weather was very much the same as in the morning, with some light drizzle, so as I climbed up (and up) to over 1500ft, the mist thickened in places. For Bristol locals, by the way, the climb was roughly two and a half times as high as Dundry Hill. At the top there were more sheep, who seemed unimpressed by my exertions. I only saw one other intrepid cyclist on Dartmoor, by the way. It did feel a long way from civilization, but then I sometimes feel that way in certain parts of Bristol. Then it was 'moor' effort to struggle across the fairly bleak landscape before the great glory of the run back down. I dashed down one hill at 45mph, but I did have to watch my speed on some hills as the sheep were free to wander across the road. I really don't want to think what a collision with a wet sheep would do to my delicate Italian racing bike.

On the edge of Dartmoor I stopped at a pony centre to meet Sarah and the children. Flora rode a pony and George took photos. At this point there were only 18 more miles to cover, so I reckoned the day was almost over. Oh no. It didn't turn out that way.

After Minchinhampton another 1000ft hill rose up before me (the famous phrase "may the road rise up to meet you" was only half right today - it rose up, but I can assure you it never, ever met me), followed by a wonderful descent through a wooded valley on the other side, with a pretty river at the bottom. To finish the day, another couple of 16% climbs, including one with the village of 'Longdown' at the top. I hoped it was accurately expressive of its position, which thankfully it was. Finally, there was one more massive hill out of Exeter, starting just past Exeter City FC, and into the village where we are staying. Paul, the owner of the B&B, raised his eyebrows when I mentioned the hill. "Oh, you didn't come through the valley, then", he said. No, I didn't.

The ride profile below shows you all the hills. I reckon I climbed the equivalent of Dundry six times today, plus the big Dartmoor climb. No wonder I'm tired. The good news is (i) I shaved seven miles off the total - it was 73 miles today; and (ii) it was a memorable experience, which is really what this trip is all about.

This evening we found a Pizza Express in Exeter - the pinnacle of all cuisine for the children. I'm hoping that my American Hot pizza will fuel a rather gentler run home to Bristol tomorrow.